In spring 2023 I set out to drive from Melbourne to south-west WA, then up to Broome. By mid-September I was driving from Perth to Broome via the heart of the mighty Pilbara. It was harder than I anticipated….
DRIVING THE INDIAN OCEAN ROAD
The city of Perth keeps spreading along its southern and northern coastal areas. Once, Alkimos was a bush block where no-one went, let alone lived. Now the train line goes there, and so do the many many residents whose new roofs keep replacing the bush.
It’s also the stepping off point for the Indian Ocean Drive, a way better way of driving north than the deadly dull Brand Highway. Rather than endless monotonous scrub punctuated by perfunctory roadhouses (hello Cataby and Eaneabba), the not-so-new Indian Ocean Drive has joined previous isolated fishing towns to a main road that offers tantalising glimpses of its namesake.
Off I went…I hadn’t gone very far before I came across a gigantic flock of Carnaby’s black cockatoos wheeling around. I had to stop and try to capture them.
Birds and flowers abound on this drive, if you take the time to stop and see.
The Indian Ocean Drive is also a convenient way to visit the must-see Pinacles at Nambung NP. This truly is something else, and warrants a few hours at least. Here are some glimpses:
On this particular journey, the historic town and fishing port of Dongara was a perfect stopover before I headed inland. Dongara can be windy, and it certainly was that night, even though I was happily sheltered in the lee of a beach sandhill. Here I am, all set for dinner prep followed by an early night in the snug Troopy.
Here’s a two-minute synopsis of the best glimpses of the my first day on this track:
DONGARA TO WOOLEEN STATION
I was keen to get going the next morning, and see that red dirt.
My path took me back about ten kms, past the turn off for the Brand Highway – then I was heading due east through wheat and sheep farming territory to the seemingly shrinking town of Mullewa.
Not a whole lot to see there but whatever you do, don’t miss Helen Ansell’s art gallery and coffee outlet. This place was humming, and rightly so. Helen’s art is vibrant, and adds a dash of panache to the town.
After Mullewa, I headed north on what was soon to be unsealed road. It was a longish drive but perfectly good. At long last, I made a right hand turn, and headed over the river. I was on my way to Wooleen Station.
This was big country, and the birds reigned supreme:
At last I rolled in to Wooleen Station: I was here for a four-day bird photography workshop with Shelley Pearson and five fellow photographers. I have written a blog specifically about the stay in the homestead, and the wonderful birds there. That stay at Wooleen was really the highlight of this entire adventure. The light out there is stunningly clear.
UPDATE in 2026: Currently Wooleen is closed, having changed hands, but is set to re-open in due course. Bookings for camping in 2027 are open.
Here’s a visual summary of the day’s adventure:
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