This West Australian drive is well worth taking – it provides a shortcut and a diversion if you’re crossing the Nullarbor … and more than that, it’s remote and compelling…plus we saw a black-treated buzzard!
In May 2025, we hit the Nullarbor again for our sixth crossing, heading to Melbourne from WA and on our way to the Flinders Ranges… this time, heading east from WA, we tackled the Granite and Woodland Discovery Trail, an unsealed road that links Hyden to Norseman. (Otherwise, you have to go from Perth out to Kalgoorlie then south to Norseman, or if you’re leaving from the South-West, you have to go all the way to Esperance on the south coast, then north to Norseman).
This beautiful drive begins with a delightful through the WA wheatbelt and its towns – some largish (hello Narrogin), some smaller but still charming (that’s you, Kondinin!).
It’s highly advisable to check whether this Discovery Trail is open before starting out (just Google it!) – it usually is open but could get sloppy after rain. Quite a bit is bitumen but you’d need to be careful, especially towing, after heavy rains. Also, there are mines out there so heavy vehicles use the road as well.
Hyden was our overnight stay on the way: we’ve stayed at the Wave Rock Caravan Park before and it was fine (not cheap and sometimes plenty of flies, but worth it if you’ve never seen Wave Rock) but this time we simply pulled up at the The Camp – Wave Rock Short Stay which is for campers and caravaners. It’s basic but very economical and easy access, but quite close to the road which was busier than we expected during the night.
Even though we arrived at dusk, this was the first time we had a go at erecting our “tent” around the Troopy. It’s a bit of work but the effect is hugely rewarding…it gives us more privacy, and more room to be in and around the car.
We even made a video about it…
HITTING THE TRAIL
Next morning we fuelled up in Hyden and hit the dirt! Literally. It’s a very good road so the drive was easy. No four wheel drive required when it’s dry. What’s more, you can download or pickup at tourist information sites a guide to the trail.
Down the detailed Guide here. Here’s an overview.
The drive takes about 3-4 hours, but if you stop at all 16 well-marked sites, it could easily take a day. There are also campsites along the way, as well as good morning tea and lunch spots.
We chose site 9, McDermid Rock for our lunch break. It was remote and peaceful, and a good break from the driving. Not too many flies either.
Bird life was pretty scant – it was the middle of the day after all, but we were very excited to spot a bird of prey circling overhead while we were driving. Fancy footwork with the camera captured the evidence – a black-breasted buzzard. That’s a rarity!
Trundling on, we especially enjoyed the scenery and the dried up lakes towards the end of the trail. The remoteness of the Trail, and its harsh beauty, really appealed to (one of) us!
We made our camp at the recently re-opened Fraser Range Station, some distance past Norseman. Highly recommend, even just for the sunset!
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