feather and flora

Kalgoorlie to Penong: Across the Nullarbor

KALGOORLIE TO BALLADONIA

A straightforward run from the goldfields, through Norseman (and up Beacon Hill for a look around), then on to Balladonia for a parmi in the pub (“parmi” is Australian for chicken parmigiana, in case you need a translation!). During the day we enjoyed a stop for a cuppa and some #troopy love, also enjoying the red dirt and the sounds of the bush.

A person leaning against a white Toyota 4x4 vehicle with a rooftop tent, surrounded by a natural landscape of trees and dirt.
NINETY-MILE STRAIGHT, MADURA PASS, EUCLA

The Ninety Mile Straight can do your head in after a while – not a bend in sight for over 140km…but, there’s only one road, so on we go. It’s always worth a stop at Madura Pass car park, just before the roadhouse, to have a break but especially to survey the vast land stretching beyond what the eye can see….such a great expanse.

A rear view of a four-wheel drive vehicle parked on a dirt surface with a vast, open landscape in the background under a clear blue sky.

Eucla is always a welcome stop, especially for the gazillion welcome swallows who call it home. As you head to Eucla from the WA side, notice the scarp on your left – it accompanies you on the drive for a very long time.

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Just before Eucla, you drive up that scarp, and can see the coast on your right. It’s a pretty spectacular spot to rest up, and the diner looks very promising though we’re yet to try it.

BUNDA CLIFFS, NULLARBOR, PENONG

The first order of business when you leave Eucla, heading east, is to pull in to see the Bunda Cliffs – just do it! It’s a wondrous experience. Take your fly net. And your camera.

A scenic coastal view featuring rugged cliffs and vibrant blue ocean waters under a partly cloudy sky. A stone wall and informational display are visible in the foreground.
Map of the Nullarbor Wilderness Protection Area in South Australia, highlighting park boundaries, major roads, points of interest, and adjacent natural reserves.

The Nullarbor was looking resplendent and green after a recent deluge. It was a whole new wondrous experience ogling at its scrubby beauty as the miles flew by.

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The Nullarbor Roadhouse is another iconic stop – this time we saw a truckload of camels, as you do. We put the drone up and had a look around – see the You Tube clip below.

Sign for Nullarbor Plain indicating the western end of the treeless plain, with a wide open landscape and blue sky in the background.

Having camped in the Troopy for a couple of nights, we reckoned it was time for a proper bed in a caravan park cabin, and Penong hit the spot. What an excellent little town: the caravan park was small and pretty perfect, and the pub was great for dinner. Lots of locals enjoying themselves: that’s what it’s all about.

How many times have you crossed the Nullarbor? Everyone should do it once, I reckon, but my first time was in my senior years. I love it.

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